Global — Ekhbary News Agency
The Fall-Winter 2023 catwalks, now disassembled, revealed a concerning trend: a stark reduction in plus-size models. This noticeable scarcity across New York, London, Milan, and Paris runways marks a significant reversal of the limited progress seen in recent seasons, coinciding with the widespread availability of new weight-loss medications.
Runway Diversity Takes a Hit
Industry observers and diversity advocates widely criticized this rollback. Data from fashion search engine Tagwalk indicated a 24% drop in mid and plus-size models compared to Spring-Summer 2023. Similarly, a Vogue Business report on size inclusivity found that a staggering 95.6% of all looks presented for Fall-Winter 2023 were in a US size 0-4. This contrasts sharply with 2015 estimates by Plunkett Research, which suggested 68% of American women wear a size US 14 or above. Mina White, an IMG model agent representing prominent curve supermodels like Paloma Elsesser and Ashley Graham, called it "a definitive backslide." She expressed frustration at designers who previously embraced diverse body types but failed to do so this season, seemingly wanting to leverage models' images for market presence without reflecting that inclusivity on their runways.
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The Ozempic Effect and Industry Response
The fashion world's shift occurs amidst a surge in popularity for prescription weight-loss injectables, such as Wegovy and Ozempic. These medications, widely reported as Hollywood’s "worst-kept secret," have been endorsed by celebrities like Elon Musk and Chelsea Handler, making the pursuit of a "size zero" physique, for all intents and purposes, a prescription away. Fashion journalist Amy Odell questioned the term "backslide" itself, arguing that true representation for average American women has never been a priority for the industry. While major houses like Fendi and Valentino, which previously featured diverse body types, remained silent or declined comment when contacted, a handful of smaller labels in London, including Di Petsa, Karoline Vitto, and Sinead O’Dwyer, continued to champion size-diverse lineups. This dichotomy highlights a persistent tension within the industry regarding body representation.